Anchors Part 2 – Anchoring Your Boat

A Guide to Anchoring Your Boat

Learn what is involved when it comes time to anchor your motor yacht

Knowing how to anchor your boat when necessary is an essential boating skill. In part two of our two-part post on anchoring, we’ll provide some tips & tricks on how to anchor your boat.

 

How to Anchor Your Boat

There are three main components to anchoring a boat, including:

Choosing the Right Anchor

We covered how to choose the right anchor in Part One of our two-part series on anchoring. To recap, there are several types of anchors available, and it’s important to pick the right kind based on the type of seabed you’ll be covering (sand, rock, seaweed, coral, etc.). Choosing the right anchor has more to do with the seabed below than the size of your vessel.

Choosing the Best Spot to Anchor

A big component of anchoring your boat successfully is knowing where to best anchor the boat so it is safe and secure. Doing so comes down to good old-fashioned intuition, as well as knowing what’s below you. Let’s jump right into it…

First, refer to your charts to know the depth of the water below. Aim for a flat bottom that is suitable for your anchor type. In a perfect world, you end up finding a spot that is soft and weed-free, where the water is calm and there isn’t a lot of wind.

If the area is crowded with other boaters, you’ll also need to be mindful of other boats in the area, making sure your boat’s swing radius won’t intersect with other boats. If possible, ask other boat owners where their anchors are dropped and how long their rodes are if you can’t tell.

Measuring Your Rode

To know if you have enough rode to anchor securely, measure the depth at your desired location from your bow (not the water surface) to the bottom, and multiply by 7, or by 5 is you have a heavier, all-chain rode.

The resulting number is the scope, and it refers to the ratio between the length of your rode and the distance from the bow to the bottom. The scope indicates approximately how far your boat will drift from your anchor. Increase your scope to 10:1 or more for stormy conditions. The longer the scope, the more horizontal your rode is, and the more tightly you will be anchored.

Knowing that if the wind or current changes, your boat could swing every which way from the anchor point, so keep a wide berth from all obstacles (a complete radius from the anchor point). Before dropping anchor, double check there are no hidden shallow areas within your anchor radius.

Also remember to check the weather and tide information so you’re not caught off-guard. If high winds are expected in the time you’ll be anchored, or if a loose anchor could cause a collision with other anchored boats in the area, use your heavier storm anchor. For most situations, your general purpose main anchor will be enough. In extremely rough seas, consider anchoring both your bow and your stern if possible.

Dropping Anchor

With the perfect spot selected, it’s time to drop your anchor. Approach your selected spot slowly from downwind and stop the boat when you’re on top of the selected spot. Allow the current or wind to move you back slightly away from the spot.

Before dropping anchor, determine and let out how much rode you’ll need, then use a cleat hitch to tie it at that distance. Drop your anchor over the bow slowly, keeping the anchor rode tight at first to avoid tangling your rode. This also helps you aim the anchor until you feel it hit bottom. Slowly let out the rode at about the same speed as the boat is moving.

Once one-third of the rode has been let out, cinch it off and let the boat straighten. Your boat will probably turn across the current or wind as you move. This will straighten the rode you’ve let out and gently set the anchor into the bottom. If your boat won’t straighten out, your anchor is drifting and you need to try again. Pick another spot if possible, if multiple attempts fail.

Continue to let out the scope and straighten the boat twice more. Uncinch the anchor rode and let it out as the boat once again drifts backward. Cinch it again once a total of 2/3 the rode length has been played out. Let the boat’s momentum straighten it out and set the anchor more firmly. Repeat this process one more time, letting out the rest of the rode length you determined was necessary.

Tie off the line around a bow cleat and voila!

Snubbing the Anchor

To further ensure you’re anchored, you can give the anchor a final hard set by reversing hard until the rode straightens out. This sudden jerk will jam an already set anchor even more firmly into the seabed. This is called snubbing the anchor.

Making Sure You’re Anchored

To make sure you’ve anchored successfully, select a couple of stationary reference points on land. Note their positions relative to each other from your perspective, then reverse your boat until the rode straightens and allow your boat to drift back to a stationary position. The two objects you had your eye on should be in the same position relative to each other as they were before you reversed.

For peace of mind, we recommend taking compass bearings immediately after anchoring, and then 15-20 minutes after anchoring to make sure you’re anchored. For even more peace of mind, many GPS units have an alarm to alert you if you drift.

Anchoring Safety Tips

  • Be careful your hands or feet don’t get caught in the rode.
  • Wear a personal flotation device when dropping or retrieving an anchor.
  • Instruct passengers whenever you’ll be anchoring.
  • Keep kids and animals out of the anchoring area.
  • When using more than one anchor, do not drop an anchor from the stern before anchoring the bow – doing so could cause your boat to capsize.
  • To make sure you stay anchored during an overnight trip, try to find a stationary object that is lit to use as a reference point. Otherwise, use a GPS unit that will alert you if you start to drift.

Learn More: See how anchoring is different than mooring and docking.

To learn even more about anchoring your boat, we recommend talking to your local boating experts. The team here at Van Isle Marina in Sidney, BC are here to help you anchor your new boat with confidence. Give us a call or stop by to learn more about how we can help you develop your boating skills.

Boat Access Only Tourist Spots

Best Boat Only Destinations Around Vancouver Island

Who doesn’t love the beauty and serenity that a secluded beach, only accessible by boat, provides? At Van Isle Marina, we love spending days or weeks at a time aboard our boats exploring the Pacific Northwest, particularly the many islands and coves around Vancouver Island.

Sometimes, the best places are stumbled upon by accident, when you weren’t even looking for them, but there are a few places that should definitely be on your boating bucket list. Here are our top places around Vancouver Island that you can only get to by boat:

Snake Island

Snake Island, about 6 km from Nanaimo’s Departure Bay, is a small, uninhabited island that’s popular with kayakers and canoers. Directly in the path of BC Ferries, be on high alert when navigating this region. Snake Island offers amazing diving experiences, a little lighthouse, a large population of harbour seals, beautiful sandstone overhangs, and great birdwatching opportunities.

Rugged Point Marine Park

If you’re looking for plenty of park amenities such as camping, canoeing, fishing, windsurfing, and hiking, check out Rugged Point. This provincial park is located on the west coast of northern Vancouver Island on the southwest end of Kyuquot Channel in the mouth of Kyuquot Sound. There are a variety of safe places to anchor at Rugged Point, or in nearby Dixie Cove, making this a popular destination for boaters.

Clayoquot Wilderness Resort

For a night or two on land, consider a stay at the seasonally-operated Clayoquot Wilderness Resort – an “all-inclusive eco-safari resort” about 30 minutes by boat from Tofino. At this wilderness retreat you get the chance to stay in one of 25 great white canvas, fully-equipped prospector-style tents, and enjoy artfully prepared coastal gourmet cuisine, a spa and more.

Broken Island Group

The Broken Group of Islands in the middle of Barkley Sound is nestled in the Alberni Inlet and close to the Pacific Rim National Park – one of Canada’s most acclaimed parks. Allow several days of boating here, where you’ll enjoy 50 kilometers of fine sand beaches at the national park before or after exploring the Broken Group Islands. If you’re into fishing, check out Eagle Nook Resort for world-class, all-inclusive salmon and fishing charters. Located amongst the Broken Group of Islands and accessible only by boat or seaplane, this remote 5-star fishing vacation is certainly something you’ll want to add to your itinerary.

Grant Bay

Grant Bay, located on the northwest coast of Vancouver Island near Port Hardy, is a white sand secluded beach that technically can be accessed by a drive and a hike, but we believe it’s much more fun to bypass all that by using a boat.

To get there from Winter Harbour, where there is a boat launch if need be, bear right at Mathews Island, continue up the inlet, bear left, tie up safely on the beach and follow the trail through the forest about 30 minutes. You’re there when you see a wide expanse of West Coast sandy beach. You might also see whales and sea otters, both of which are common in the area.

Sandy Island

Sandy Island Marine Park, known locally as Tree Island, is located on the northern tip of Denman Island. Access is boat-only, or by foot from Denman Island at low tide. Sandy Island offers great birdwatching and sandy beaches suitable for sunbathing and swimming.

Ahousaht

Ahousaht, located in a small bay on the east side of Flores Island in Clayoquot Sound, is the largest of the Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations with more than 2,000 members. At Ahousaht you’ll also find the Clayoquot Sound Biosphere Reserve, home to a diverse ecosystem and a rare ancient temperate rain forest. Take a reprieve from life at sea. Moor the boat and take a stay at the Aauuknuk Lodge or the Lone Cone Hostel and Campground located on Meares Island.

Vargas Island Provincial Park

Vargas Island Provincial Park in Clayoquot Sound is located immediately northwest of Tofino and west of Meares Island on the west coast of Vancouver Island. This park offers great paddling, camping, and wildlife viewing. Also be on the lookout for Gray whales around Ahous Bay in the spring.

On the shorelines of Vargas Island, you’ll see an exposed rocky coast, sandy beaches, sheltered channels and bays, an intertidal lagoon, and ancient sand berms – rows of crescent-shaped sand mounds that indicate earlier sea levels.

Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park

Chances are you’ve already heard about or been to Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park – a boater’s paradise, with its calm waters, vistas, and more than 60 km of shoreline to discover. There are three major destination anchorages that make up Desolation Sound: Prideaux Haven, Tenedo’s Bay and Grace Harbour. This place is popular, but there is plenty of room for everyone.

Refuge Cove

Refuge Cove in the heart of Desolation Sound is a remote community of around 30 full-time residents with a great summertime burger joint, general store, and campsites. They also offer free four-hour moorage, or overnight stays for a small fee.

Roscoe Bay and Squirrel Cove

While near Desolation Sound, we also recommend visiting nearby Roscoe Bay and Squirrel Cove, both northwest of Desolation. Note that swimming in Roscoe Bay isn’t recommended. Instead, take a 1-2 hour hike and enjoy a freshwater swim at nearby Black Lake.

Lasqueti Island

Lasqueti Island lies off the east coast of Vancouver Island in the Powell River Regional District. It has a population of around 500 people who all live off-grid. There are no public campgrounds on the island, but there are numerous provincial parks on the perimeters of the island, including Squitty Bay Provincial Park. The waters around this area are ideal for cold water scuba diving.

Protection Island

Protection Island, about a 15-minute ferry ride from the harbour city of Nanaimo, is home to around 350 full-time residents. The main mode of transportation on the island is golf carts. On Protection Island you’ll definitely have to check out the Dinghy Dock pub, which is Canada’s only floating pub. There are also tons of beaches and wildlife viewing opportunities on this small island.

New Castle and Gabriola Islands

Also in the Nanaimo area is New Castle Island, a popular place for kayakers who are launching from Nanaimo, and Gabriola Island, or Isle of the Arts, which is a small town of around 4,000 people, including many artists.

Mudge Island

Between Vancouver Island and Gabriola Island you’ll also find Mudge Island, a small island with 50-65 full-time residents and a public park (South Beach), but no ferry service or stores. Mudge is on the northern tip of Dodd Narrows, which means strong currents, whirlpools and back eddies, so proceed with caution! Also be mindful of the reef running through nearby False Narrows.

Hot Springs Cove

Hot Springs Cove in Maquinna Provincial Park northwest of Tofino in Clayoquot Sound – a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve – are geothermal hot springs backed by amazing scenery. To access the hot springs, anchor the boat and then enjoy a 2km walk along well-maintained boardwalks and wooden stairs through lush rainforest to get to the natural hot springs. There, you can take a long soak.

Additional Destinations Recommended by Pacific Yachting

In addition to the items on our list, check out Pacific Yachting’s 7 Best Boat-Access-Only Beaches in the Gulf Islands, which features:

The boating experts here at Van Isle Marina are very familiar with these and many other great destinations for boating in the Pacific Northwest. We’d also love to hear about the places you love boating around Vancouver Island! We look forward to welcoming you to our docks and helping you find the best new or pre-owned boat or yacht to match your boating lifestyle.

Anchor Types – Part 1

Different Types of Anchors

Learn about the different styles of anchors and how to select the right anchor for your motor yacht

Knowing how to anchor your boat when necessary is an essential boating skill. In part one of our two-part post on anchoring, we share an introduction to selecting the right anchor for your boat.

Anchoring Your Boat

Anchoring your boat refers to securing it in place in the open sea for hours, days, or months at a time without the use of a dock or a moor. (See our guide to understanding the differences between anchoring, docking, and mooring). There are many instances when you might need to anchor a boat, including:

 

  • Spending the night at sea
  • During stormy weather
  • Taking a fishing or swimming break
  • Getting fueled up
  • Retiring the boat for the season
  • Relaxing to enjoy the scenery

How Many Anchors Do You Need?

Anchoring your boat involves dropping a large heavy object that is attached to your boat into the water, where it latches itself to the seabed with hooks and suction to keep the boat in place. You can anchor your boat anywhere you’re legally allowed to if you have an anchor cable, known as an anchor rode, that’s long enough (multiply the depth of your desired location – from the top of your bow to the bottom of the seabed – by 7, or by 5 if you have a heavier, all-chain rode to determine the scope).

Most luxury motor yachts come with built-in anchoring systems located at the bow and concealed from view, which takes the guesswork out of which size and weight of anchor is best for your vessel, but if you’ll be anchoring in rough seas and/or varying types of sea beds, we recommend carrying an additional anchor or two of varying styles and sizes.

For example, your boat’s main anchor is a great, all-purpose anchor for extended periods. However, if you’ll be making frequent stops and anchoring often, an anchor one or two sizes smaller that’s easy to deploy and pull up would be considered an asset.

Likewise, a storm anchor one or two sizes larger would provide more peace of mind during rough weather or for overnight stops. In addition, it’s always good to have at least one heavy backup in case you lose an anchor, or for situations where it’s wise to use two anchors.

Choosing the right anchor

There are several different types of boating anchors available. Each one is designed for various types of sea beds (i.e., mud, grass, sand, coral, or rock). The type of seabed you’re navigating will determine which anchor is most suitable to use. For motor yachts in the Pacific Northwest, a fluke/Danforth anchor is considered a general-purpose anchor. Carrying both a fluke anchor and a scoop style anchor is recommended.

 

Fluke Anchors

The modern fluke anchor, also called the Lightweight or Danforth, works in both soft mud and hard sand. Once made out of iron, today’s fluke anchors are aluminum, lightweight and consist of two flat, pointed, pivoting flukes that extend at a 30º angle from the anchor rod. Fluke anchors stow flat and have an excellent holding-power-to-weight ratio. Fluke anchors are those iconic-looking anchors most recognized by the general population (i.e. non-boaters). They are not suitable for grassy or rocky surfaces.

Plow and Scoop Anchors

Plow or scoop anchors are single point anchors that are good for grass, mud, and sand. Similar to fluke anchors, both plow and scoop anchors are heavier and have a plow-shaped wedge attached by a swivel to the shaft.

Mushroom Anchors

Shaped like an upside-down mushroom, mushroom anchors don’t have any way of gripping the seabed; rather, they are heavy and burrow under sediment, which is where their holding power comes from. Mushroom anchors should only be used for small boats like inflatable boats, rowboats, and canoes in heavily weeded areas for short stops only.

Specialized Anchors

Additional anchors on the market include the Grapnel, Herreshoff anchors, Delta, and Claw:

  • Grapnel: a shank with four or more tines small enough to hook into rocky bottoms. Best used in rocky bottoms.
  • Herreshoff: has small diamond shaped flukes or palms and can be stowed in 3 pieces.
  • Delta: a plow anchor with a rigid, arched shank that is self-launching.
  • Admiralty or Fisherman Anchor: the classic anchor design that consists of a central shank with a ring or shackle for attaching the rode.
  • Bruce or claw anchor: a claw-shaped anchor that is a variation of the plow design intended to have more staying power. Best used in rocky bottoms.

If you’re unsure of what style of anchor is best for your boat, always consult with a boating expert. One of our boating experts at Van Isle Marina will be happy to answer your questions.

Anchor Weight

The size of anchor you’ll need for your vessel will be specified by the boat’s manufacturer. Note that for larger boats, a working anchor and a storm anchor are recommended, with the storm anchor being twice as heavy as the working anchor. For 30’ boats, a working anchor weight of 700 lbs is recommended, and for 60’ boats, that number jumps to 2,000 lbs for the working anchor.

We recommend using a larger anchor than specified if there is an unusual amount of weight being carried on your boat. The physical size of the anchor and its type is more important than its weight, but always go for a larger anchor when in doubt.

Anchor Quality: Although they might not seem like it, anchors are an important piece of safety equipment – always buy high-quality anchors. If you are buying a pre-owned anchor, inspect it for rust, poor welding lines, and other inconsistencies in the metal.

Deck Cleats and Rollers: You also need to have the right type of deck cleats or anchor rollers for your anchors. If you may have a bow roller mounted on your boat already, just know that each roller is only suitable for specific types of anchors. If you don’t have an anchor housing on your boat already, make sure you have strong, sturdy deck cleats for tying the anchor to.

Anchor Chain or Rope?

With your anchor selection made, it’s time to pick the anchor line you’ll attach your anchor to. This line is called the anchor rode, and is typically metal chain, nylon rope, or a combination of the two.

Metal Chain is more expensive but requires less replacement over the years. It also helps to drop the anchor more quickly.

Nylon is strong, easy to manipulate, and relatively cheap to use. It also works well during sudden wind and current changes. However, it can snag or tear more easily and need to be replaced more often than chain.

Many boaters opt for using a combination of both materials and are more concerned with having the rode be of sufficient diameter. For example, aim for nylon rope should be 3/16″ (4.8mm) in diameter for a vessel under 10′ (3m) in length and 3/8″ (9.5mm) for a vessel under 20′ (6m). Increase the diameter by an additional eighth of an inch for each additional 10 feet of your vessel length.

When you buy a boat or yacht through Van Isle Marina, our boating experts will help familiarize you with your yacht’s anchoring system, so you feel confident you are prepared for anything when out on the water.

Give us a call or stop by to learn more about how we can help you develop your boating skills.

Types of Fishing Lines

Different Types of Fishing Lines and Their Uses

An overview of the different types of fishing lines and how to select the right line for the right fish

At Van Isle Marina, we know using the right fishing line for specific fishing conditions is an essential part of catching fish! All anglers must learn this fact early on in order to be successful. In this post intended for beginner fishermen, we will go over the main types of fishing line available: monofilament, braid, and fluorocarbon, highlighting the pros and cons of each.

Need a fishing boat? Check out our best boats for fishing guide.

What is Fishing Line?

Fishing line is long threaded material (usually nylon, silk or wire,) used with a fishing rod to catch and reel in fish. It is what is cast from the rod, flies through the air, and ultimately lands down into the depths of the water. Fishing line comes in different materials and strengths – each offering pros and cons – and is the material that comes spooled on a reel (usually a spinning reel or a baitcaster reel).

Monofilament Fishing Line

Monofilament fishing line, or “mono” is the most basic and most common fishing line out there. Made out of nylon extruded in a single, continuous filament and left untwisted, monofilament fishing line is a good all-around line that is smooth and a bit stretchy. It also floats, which can be an advantage or disadvantage, depending on your application. Pre-spooled reels are usually spooled with monofilament.

In addition to monofilament fishing line there is also thermal filament fishing line, which is a higher-performance line that is produced by thermal bonding of small fibers. This type of line has a smaller diameter per pound test than monofilament. It is also a bit more expensive and less readily available.

When to Use Monofilament Fishing Line

Monofilament fishing line can be used on a spinning reel or a baitcaster reel. It is best for fishing in freshwater, inshore, nearshore, or off a pier using either a spinning or baitcaster rod and reel. It’s also a great fishing line for small and large native fish species like trout and salmon, as well as flathead, small tuna, kingfish and snapper. Generally, when fishing on a lake, lighter and more sensitive line is ideal, as casting is a more active style of fishing and the targeted species are smaller.

Pros of Monofilament Fishing Line

  • Affordable, readily available
  • Less expensive than other lines
  • Stretches can absorb shocks
  • Abrasion-resistant
  • Uniformly round so it spools neatly
  • Easy to tie knots with
  • Available in special shades of colours such as clear, blue, white, green, red, and fluorescent so the angler can see its position in the water, but the fish cannot.

Cons of Monofilament Fishing Line

  • Not as strong as other types of line, yet takes up more room on the spool
  • Its nylon material breaks down over time in direct sunlight
  • More visible in the water than other types, regardless of the chosen colour or shade
  • The stretch makes it difficult to feel some fish strikes
  • Susceptible to “line memory”, which is when the line “remembers” the shape of the reel it is stored on. Line memory can cause knotting in the reel and could negatively impact casting distance. In contrast, lines with no memory stay straight when they come off the spool, enabling longer, smoother casts.

Braided Fishing Line

Braided fishing line, also made of synthetic plastic fibers such as nylon or more specialty materials like Dacron, see below), is stronger than monofilament line and is therefore more common for fishing larger species. It also has no stretch, which allows anglers to feel every move the fish makes on the end of their line.

Braided lines entered the market in the early 1900s to replace horsehair lines. In earlier days, natural fibers such as cotton, linen, and silk were used for braided lines. These materials have now been largely replaced with synthetic plastic fibers.

When to Use Braided Fishing Line

Braided fishing line is best used during saltwater game fishing, such as offshore trolling of marlin, large tuna, sharks, and large kingfisher. Avoid braided line when some line stretch is actually preferred, such as when trolling for soft-mouthed fish like salmon. Some stretch can act like a shock absorber, making a big difference in successfully hooking a soft-mouthed fish.

Pros of Braided Fishing Line

  • Very strong despite a smaller diameter, so you can pack more line on the spool
  • Sinks faster and casts farther
  • Doesn’t break down in sunlight
  • Less visible to the fish than monofilament line
  • No stretch allows you to feel when a fish bite
  • No stretch allows for better lure movement
  • No “line memory”, which can lead to greater casting distances

Cons of Braided Fishing Line

  • Strong, so it’s more difficult to cut
  • Slippery, so knots are trickier to master
  • Less abrasion-resistant than monofilament
  • Can weigh down your rod
  • More expensive than mono line

Fluorocarbon Fishing Line

Like monofilament, fluorocarbon fishing line is also extruded in a single strand similar, but fluorocarbon molecules are more tightly packed, so the line is denser and noticeably heavier by size than nylon. Fluorocarbon refers to a broad family of compounds, including organics comprised of fluorine, chlorine and carbon, along with synthetics made from hydrocarbons. However, when it comes to fishing line, we’re looking at a material associated with polyvinylidene difluoride (PVDF).

When to Use Fluorocarbon Fishing Line

Because it sinks easily, this type of fishing line is great for bottom fishing, such as jigging or bottom bouncing. Also, because it has a bit of stretch but not too much, it’s suitable for trolling.

By and far, fluorocarbon fishing line is most commonly used as leaders (a short length of heavier test fishing line that attaches to the main line at one end, and the hook or lure at the other). Leaders can be helpful in increasing your chances of hooking and keeping fish, while preventing you from having to cast a whole spool’s worth of heavier material.

Pros of Fluorocarbon Fishing Line

  • Practically invisible to the fish
  • Less stretchy than monofilament line
  • Very abrasion-resistant, water-resistant, and dense
  • Sinks extremely fast in the water, so there is less slack and it’s easier to get your lure at the depth you want.
  • More sensitive, so you can easily feel the lightest bites and even your lure ticking bottom.
  • When used as a leader, it can help reduce line fray from the fish’s mouth.

Cons of Fluorocarbon Fishing Line

  • Stiffer, very prone to line memory
  • Least manageable of the fishing lines
  • More expensive than other types of lines
  • Different brands offering a range of qualities
  • Typing knots requires moistening the line first

Dacron, Spectra & Dyneema

In addition to the types of fishing line mentioned above, it’s important to note that there are more materials than ever before being used to create fishing lines. Nylon remains the most popular and cost-effective material for fishing line, but newer materials such as Dacron, Spectra, and Dyneema are available, particularly for braided lines.

  • Dacron was created by DuPont (the same creators of nylon) in the late 1950s just 20 years after nylon was invented. It’s a long-chain polyester that is a slight improvement over nylon in terms of its strength, flexibility and low stretch.
  • Spectra and Dyneema are modern brand names for ultra-strong polyethylene fiber used for high-tech fishing line. Spectra and Dyneema are stronger than steel and more durable than polyester but come with a higher price tag. These materials can be worth the extra price, though, as they reduce the weight of your tackle while increasing the amount of line that fits onto the spool. They offer more sensitivity, abrasion resistance and knot strength, with low stretch and almost no line memory.

Wire Fishing Line

Wire, either single strand or braided, can also be used as fishing line. Wire fishing line can be especially helpful in catching fish when used as a leader material for fishing toothy fish like mackerel and tuna. Wire is also used during trolling when reaching deeper depths is important. When fishing with wire, you’ll require specialized, hardened spools for your reels.

Line Strength

Whether it’s monofilament or braided, fishing line is sold in different strength ratings (referred to as “tests”, short for tensile strength or tensile testing). The strength of fishing line is measured in pounds and should match up with the weight of the species of fish you are going after. For example, a braided line with a 30-pound test or more would be ideal for large game fish, whereas a 5-pound test would be suitable for trout.

If your line is too light, it might be difficult to cast or it might break when you’re reeling in a heavy load. Worse yet, too heavy a line can break a lightweight rod.

General Fishing Line Tips & Tricks

  • If you’re frequently fishing heavy cover, check your line regularly for nicks, creases and other imperfections that tend to lead to backlashing or less than perfect casts.
  • Always buy and have on hand more line than you think you are going to need. You’ll probably find you go through a lot more than you think.
  • When storing your fishing line, especially nylon line, protect it from harmful UV rays that can ultimately weaken its strength over time. If in doubt, start with a fresh spool every season.
  • Use genuine perfected knots no matter what type of line you’re using to minimize the loss of line strength in the knot area.
  • Try to match your type of line to your class of rod and reel (spinning vs. baitcaster).
  • A fishing line is only as useful as the quality of the knots that are used to attach your lures and bait, so match sure there is enough strength at the knots.
  • If you’ll be casting frequently, opt for smooth, light lines that come off the spool easier, which enables more accurate casts over longer distances.

Looking for a new boat or yacht to start casting lines from? Van Isle Marina has a wide range of yacht services and yachts for sale moored at our docks. Take a look at our selection online or come and see us in person. We are located at 2320 Harbour Road in Sidney, British Columbia near Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal.