Let’s look at the differences between anchoring, mooring, and docking. While they all refer to ways of securing your boat in place when necessary, these 3 nautical terms all mean something slightly different.

An essential part of learning how to navigate a new vessel is learning all the options you have for stopping your boat whenever the need arises, such as when you’re:

• Preparing for an overnight at sea
• Waiting for a storm to pass
• Stopping to cast a line
• Taking a swimming break
• Retiring the boat for the season
• Getting fueled up

To secure your yacht in place for any length of time, your choices include anchoring, mooring, or docking the boat. All these terms refer to securing your boat in position on the water – for hours, days, or months at a time.

Anchoring Your Boat

Anchoring your boat refers to dropping a large, heavy object that is attached to your boat into the water, where it latches itself to the seabed with hooks and suction to keep the boat in place. You can anchor your boat anywhere if you have an anchor cable (known as an anchor rode) that’s long enough. To figure out how long your anchor rode should be, multiply the deepest water you might anchor in by eight.

Many modern motor yachts come with built-in anchoring systems. For example, like on most Pursuit sport yachts, the boats use an integrated anchoring system, gracefully added to the bow using a 10″ mooring cleat and a chain binder. Auto-anchoring systems can be operated from the helm as well as from a hand-held remote found in the anchor locker.

Having your yacht come with an anchoring station takes the guesswork out of which size and weight of anchor is best for your vessel, but there is a greater science behind anchoring that you’ll want to be aware of if you’re a new boat owner, especially if you’ll be anchoring in varying types of sea beds.

For additional anchoring security, many boaters carry two anchors of different styles – a fluke/Danforth style and a plow/scoop variety. The type of seabed you’re navigating, such as mud, grass, sand, coral, or rock, will determine which anchor is most suitable to use. Research your anchoring options before sailing too far from shore, and make sure you’re confident with how the process works.

Learn more about the different types of anchors.

Anchoring a boat is an essential boating skill. It all starts with choosing the correct anchor and a suitable location to anchor. Your depth charts will come in hand here, plus you’ll want to keep an eye on your swing radius and the location of nearby boats. Then you’re ready to drop your anchor – a careful procedure that requires attention to detail, precise measurements and awareness of incoming weather and tides. Read more about how to drop the anchor.

Mooring Your Boat

Mooring refers to lassoing, tethering, tying, or otherwise securing your boat to a fixed object, such as a mooring buoy, rather than dropping an anchor to secure your vessel anywhere you fancy. You can moor your boat to a mooring buoy, dock, quay, wharf, jetty, or pier.

If mooring at a dock or pier with other boats, there is a chance things will get crowded. However, you will always have your own strip of docking walkway for easy loading and unloading at Van Isle Marina.

Mooring your boat (sometimes called berthing) is done a few different ways and might take some trial and error until you perfect this skill. Mooring in a tight space amongst many other boaters proves to be intimidating for many new boaters.

To moor a boat at a mooring buoy out in open water, you’ll need something to grab hold of the buoy with, such as a boat hook or a line. You can either lasso the buoy with your line and pull your boat towards it to further secure it or use a boat hook to reach out and grab the buoy.

At these types of mooring locations, there will most likely be the mooring anchor, mooring chain, and mooring buoy – all you need to supply is the line or the hook to help your boat attach to the mooring area.

• mooring anchor – this is a regular anchor in a fixed position that keeps your boat steady while it is being moored. Use one that is three times the weight of your service anchor.
• mooring chain – this line connects the anchor to the floating buoy. We recommend three times the length of depth, and a quarter-inch larger than your service chain.
• mooring buoy – a floating device that connects to the anchor and marks the place where the boat is moored.

If you find a vacant mooring anchor and buoy, simply pull up as close to it as possible and attach your line and mooring buoy accordingly – using your lasso technique or the boat hook. If the buoy is not public property, be prepared to vacate at short notice if the owner turns up. To tell if the buoy is strong enough to moor your yacht, consider the size of boats on similar buoys nearby and use your best judgment.

If you have enough hands on-deck, backing the boat up will likely get you close enough to the mooring point via the stern rather than the bow, making things a little simpler, depending on the shape of your boat.

The wind may be a fierce challenger as you attempt to moor your boat. If the wind is pushing you away from where you want to moor, approach at a steep angle (aim for 40-degrees), reverse the vessel to hold position then briefly drive the boat forward and turn the wheel away from the dock to swing in the stern. If the wind is pushing you into the dock, slow right down, put your fenders in place, and let the wind take you into the dock.

Be aware that simply tying your vessel is not the end of the mooring process. There is an entire checklist of procedures to run through before you complete the process and leave the boat. Lines need to be checked, unneeded electronics turned off, ignition switches locked, and more. Read our complete mooring checklist here: Boat Mooring Checklist & Techniques

Van Isle Marina offers moorage for boats of all sizes at competitive rates per square foot.

A Word on Rafting Up: Sometimes, you might come across boats that are tied together on the water. This is known as “rafting up” and is essentially a boat moored to another boat. It can come in handy when every other moorage station is full, in emergencies, or if you’re just looking to socialize with another boat on the water. If you’re looking to raft up with another boat, whether it’s moored already or you’re both out on the open sea, the proper etiquette is to ask first, and have your fenders in place and an anchor ready to drop.

Docking Your Boat

Docking your boat refers to pulling your vessel up to a dock as parallel as you can, and then using ropes (dock lines) and nautical knots to secure (fasten) the boat to the dock.

In addition to the docking line, to dock your boat safely, you’ll require four or more fenders – large plastic or rubber devices that act as a buffer between the boat and the dock or pier and other boats, protecting both from damage. Using a couple of large fenders close together at the front of your boat when coming into dock can act as a bumper, further protecting your yacht during this procedure.

When you’re docking a boat, the boat will be close enough for guests to easily disembark the vessel onto the dock (land). Docking usually means the length of your boat (bow and stern) will be secured to the dock, giving you a maximum amount of space for loading and unloading of supplies, as well as maintenance and cleanup of your vessel.

Docking is made easier when there is someone already on the dock to help you, and when the winds and the tide are cooperating. However, just like parallel parking a car, docking a boat gets easier and easier each time you do it.

Remember, there is no need to force a docking if it isn’t feeling right. Just like parking a car, sometimes it’s best to bail out, circle back and try again. There’s no shame in trying again – especially if you’re a new captain or one-person crew. At Van Isle Marina, our crew is always happy to lend a helping hand with catching lines.

For more info on docking, read our Simple Tips for Docking Your Boat Like a Pro.

Van Isle Marina in Sidney, BC is your go-to boat marina in the Pacific Northwest. We love to help fellow boaters just like us learn more about all the ins and outs of boating, including anchoring, mooring, and docking. If you’re interested in buying or selling a boat or moorage at our marina, give us a call or stop by to find out why so many people love to moor with us.

What people have to say about mooring with Van Isle Marina:

Impeccable facilities, moorage for 100’+ yachts down to small fishing boats, always helpful and alert staff, 24 hour video security, full service boatyard, large dry stowage yard, two sided fuel dock, Canada Customs dock, pumpout dock, laundry, showers and the best restaurant in town all located just 15 minutes from Victoria International Airport (YYJ) and on the door step to one of the best cruising grounds on Earth.  ~ EZBob Vincent

Great spot for moorage. Friendly staff, excellent facilities with updated docks.  ~ Scott Hutchinson

Understanding the True Cost of Boat Ownership From Maintenance to Operation

While it’s tempting to look at the sticker price of a boat for sale and get caught up in the dream, we always caution our customers on the additional costs of boat ownership they need to consider. After all, it’s easy to underestimate what it takes to own a boat, which is why our yacht sales team always take new boat owners through all the costs that may arise.

Our sales team wants our customers to love their boats wholeheartedly and feel excited every time they are out on the water – not struggle to make payments and end up experiencing buyer’s remorse.

Keeping the following costs in mind while shopping for your first boat is strongly recommended in order to stay comfortably within your budget.

1. Fuel and Other Operating Costs

Operating costs vary a lot based on the type of boat. For example, the cost of fuel will naturally vary according to the age, size, and style of your boat (sport vs day cruiser; motor yacht vs sailboat, etc). You can burn more fuel at a higher cruising speed. At the pump, the cost will fluctuate depending what kind of gas your boat requires and where in the world you are. As of late-2025 in Victoria, marine gasoline is priced just under $2 per litre while marine diesel hovers around $2 per litre.

There are also expenses associated with oil, batteries, pumps, lights, and specialized equipment and other rations that ultimately will need replenishing. These will all need to be budgeted for appropriately.

Fuel and operating costs are never an exact science, but your yacht sales team and experienced boater family and friends will happily share some insights with you and can assist you in knowing what to budget for these items.

2. Boat Insurance

The cost to insure your boat against damages will depend on things like the size and age of the boat, where it will be docked, the types of activities it will be used for, and other factors. On top of insurance for your actual vessel, you might also be required to have liability insurance and damage coverage.

Insurance costs can certainly add up, making them one of the highest costs of boat ownership, but like all insurances, it’s a necessary evil if you want to moor your boat anywhere. At Van Isle Marina, we can refer you to some excellent insurance brokers who can assist you.

As a general guideline, expect insurance to cost about 1.5% of the boat’s total value. But again, there are several factors that could swing that figure in either direction.

3. Moorage and Storage

Mooring a boat at a marina or storing your boat on land in a storage facility will come with various costs that differ a lot among marinas and facilities. For example, a secure storage facility might cost considerably less overall than mooring your boat in the water at a municipal marina, private marina, or exclusive yacht club. These costs can range from a hundred dollars to a thousand dollars (or more) per month.

Fees are often calculated per foot of your vessel, and paid for monthly or annually. Discuss with your yacht sales team where you will be storing your new boat, specifically mentioning whether it will be stored in water or on land, as this cost will definitely affect how much boat you can afford. See Van Isle Marina’s moorage rates to get an idea of what moorage and storage could cost you.

In addition to the moorage fee, some marinas may also charge for things like live aboard fees, optional car parking, and utility fees for electrical power and fresh water supplies.

4. Trailer

With most smaller boat purchases comes an inevitable trailer purchase. The trailer is a key component of boat ownership. At some point you’ll need one to haul your boat in and out of the water.

Sometimes the trailer you’ll use to haul your boat is an entirely separate purchase, while sometimes it’s included in the price of the boat you’re buying. Whatever the case may be, you’ll need to do more than just consider the outright purchase of the trailer – there are the additional maintenance costs of the trailer, with tires and brakes being the two biggest ticket items, on top of insurance and any potential storage costs if you cannot keep the trailer on your property.

5. Boat Maintenance and Repairs

It’s common to hear from boat owners that boat maintenance costs are approximately 5-10% of the value of the boat per year. However, it’s tough to go off of such a percentage. There are so many factors that affect a boat’s maintenance cost and schedule, with the obvious ones being how often it is used, and in what weather conditions.

Things that need maintaining are waxing and painting of the hull and engine tune-ups, while things that might need frequent repair are plumbing and electrical issues – again, it all depends on the age of your vessel, your make and model, and how much sweat equity you’re able to contribute.

>> Learn more about our boat maintenance services at Van Isle Marina.

>> Read our Boat Maintenance Checklist.

6. Equipment & Accessories

You’ll need to outfit your new boat with all the essential elements that are required for a day out on the water. Some items are required, like lifejackets, fire extinguisher, distress signals, flashlight and first aid supplies, while others will contribute to a more comfortable boating experience. Some of these are relatively minor one-time expenses, but they all contribute to your overall cost of owning a boat. Read the full boating equipment checklist.

If you’re departing for at least a couple nights or more, there are number of things to make sure you’ve got stocked onboard.

• Cleaning supplies and towels
• Fishing tackle and other gear
• Water sports gear
• Kitchen essentials like flatware, plates and bowls, cutting board, bottle opener, peeler, cookware, measuring cups, containers and much more

7. Extras & Add-ons

Just like brand new cars, boats can come standard (factory built) or come with several optional add-ons to enhance the experience of the ride. Your desire and ability to opt for these extras will depend on your budget and how much you are willing to invest.

Be prepared for the ticket price of your desired model to go up when you factor in your desired extras. This could include things like upgraded upholstery packages, sportfishing packages, GPS systems, anchoring system, laundry rooms, engine power, and the list goes on. You name it, there is probably an upgrade for it in the boating world!

8. Warranties & Interest

There might be the option to purchase extended warranties on some new models. Study these closely and be sure you understand what is already covered by the limited warranty, and what the extension of the extended warranty will cover. These warranties can range from engine-only coverage all the way to comprehensive coverage that costs thousands of dollars. The cost of warranty depends greatly on not only the type of coverage you’re after, but the boat’s value, engine, and homebase location.

If you’ll be financing your new boat, the amount of interest you’ll pay over time should also be considered an additional cost of boat ownership. These rates will vary depending on the lender and the borrower’s credit history.

9. Certification & Registration

If you’re brand new to boating, there is a mandatory boating safety course to take in order to get your Pleasure Craft Operator Card. This costs between $40-$70 in BC. If you have a VHF marine radio on board, one person on board must also carry a Restricted Operator Certificate (Maritime). This certification typically costs $200-$300, and up to $700 for commercial versions. These are not overly expensive to obtain, but they are costs associated with boat ownership, nonetheless. If you want to take it a step further, registering your boat (for a fee) is yet another option.

>>Read more about the documentation you need to operate a boat.

10. Depreciation

Some boats hold their value more than others, which, in a roundabout way, can be considered a cost of boat ownership. When you go to sell your new boat to move on to something you like better, be prepared for some depreciation if you’re the original owner of the boat you’re selling. A yacht sales team can advise you on any particular model’s potential resale value if depreciation is a concern to you.

See our post on buying a pre-owned yacht for more tips on budgeting for as much yacht as you can afford. We can help you find something within reach!

At Van Isle Marina, our yacht sales team want you to feel comfortable and understand all aspects of the yachting lifestyle, including the costs. We are standing by, ready to help you navigate the experience of buying your first boat. Learn more about our sales process and how you can apply online for financing. We look forward to helping you find and afford the boat of your dreams!



Warm weather has officially come and gone here on the West Coast. Long, warm days on the water are over for now, and in order to get your boat ready for the next summer, there are some critical pieces of maintenance and upkeep that need to happen.

For some yacht owners, an annual haul out marks the end of boating season; for others, it’s a chance to clean and carry out any repairs before putting the boat right back in. Even if you enjoy boating year-round, annual boat maintenance shouldn’t be missed.

At Van Isle Marina, we’ve got all the facilities you’ll need to show your boat some love and get it ready for another winter season. If you dread haul-out time, you’re not alone – most boat owners feel uncomfortable watching their pride and joy get lifted out of the water. The good news is we have rounded up some of the top tips for a successful haul out, which will help make your next experience as stress-free as possible.

In this article, we’re going to share everything you need to know about hauling out your boat at Van Isle Marina.

Time for a Haul Out

Whether you’re planning to prep and store your boat until next summer or just carry out some annual maintenance before diving right back into the water, all boat owners will need a haul-out facility.

Van Isle Marina is home to a complete maintenance and storage facility, complete haul-out services for boats up to 70 feet, a fully fenced yard, environmental management systems, and equipment for rental.

The haul-out process involves physically removing your boat from the water using our sealift or your own trailer. No matter how you go about it, hauling out can be a stressful event for any boat owner. The best thing you can do is make sure you’re prepared. That means booking ahead, taking stock of their current state of your boat, familiarizing yourself with lift points, and removing anything that could get damaged.

To make the process as seamless as possible, it’s important to communicate with the marina staff. Be sure to provide your boat’s specifications, including length, weight, beam, draft, and make. Any other unique info is super helpful.

Why Do I Need to Haul Out My Boat?

There can be several reasons why you need a haul out, and when and how often you need them, such as:

• Annual inspections and cleaning
• To move it to another location
• To store it for the winter
• To trailer it on dry land
• Repairs and maintenance

Even if you live in a region which enables you to leave your boat in the water year-round, you should still have regular haul-outs as regular maintenance prolongs the life of your vessel.

If you don’t haul, clean and inspect regularly, you may miss damage or buildup of barnacles and other contamination, which can cause blockages and damage to mechanisms and instruments. This type of damage can ultimately cause water penetration, poor performance and lower fuel efficiency.

What Can I Do to Prepare for My Haul Out?

There are lots of things boat owners can do before a haul out to save time, stress and reduce the risk of things going wrong.

1. The most important thing is to plan ahead – if you are hauling it out during a busy boating season, you may need to book some time in advance for both the haul out and any maintenance work.
2. If you haven’t been out on the water for a while, take your yacht for a mechanical test run. Check how it feels when running at full rpm and make note of anything that may need to be looked at while it is out of the water.
3. Get to know where the safe lift points are on your vessel and mark them with bright tape. Doing this will make it easier for the crane operator and ensure your boat is being lifted by its strongest points, minimizing the risk of damage. Alternatively, show the operator a photograph of your boat out of water, which they can use to decide the best lifting spots.
4. The day before your haul out, take the time to work out your approach to the haul-out channel – this will help reduce stress on the day.
5. Remove anything from the boat that could move around in transit and get damaged.
6. If you usually live aboard, consider how long you are going to be off your boat. It could be one day or multiple days, depending on what you are having done. Be sure to take everything with you that you will need.
7. If you are not familiar with the yard or marina, remember to ask what facilities they have and how you can access them.
8. Need some maintenance work? Plan ahead as much as you can. Decide what you can do and what you need contractors to do. Buy parts and supplies ahead of time to prevent unwanted delays.
9. Familiarize yourself with the haul-out fees at your yard/marina and what they include. If you are going to be storing your yacht on dry land for a while, talk to the marina about which storage options are best for your vessel.
10. Pre-drain your water and waste tanks to reduce the weight of the boat.

Should I Be On Site for My Boat Haul Out?

If at all possible, be on site for the haul out. This is a great opportunity to observe your yacht while it is being lifted:

• How fouled is it?
• Is the paint chipping or peeling?
• Are the anodes worn?
• Any visible damage or erosion on propellers, rudders or transducers?

Self-Serve or Full Service Maintenance Services

Once your boat has been successfully hauled out of the water, you’re free to get started on annual boat maintenance and upkeep. This is the part where you can show your boat some love, get started on critical maintenance, and apply a little TLC before your boat drops back into the water or is tucked away in storage for the season.

Our facilities at Van Isle Marina can accommodate self-serve and full service. That means once your boat is hauled out of the water, you’re free to do what you please and carry out your own maintenance and upkeep. Alternatively, our marina staff will be at the ready for hire.

Our dedicated team of technicians and marina staff can carry out services like power washing, bottom painting, site cleanups, forklift, and more. And if your boat needs maintenance done to the engine, fuel systems or battery, we can connect you with the right skilled workers for the job.

Even if there are no major repairs required, consider these basic tasks:

• Bottom painting: After the hull has been cleaned, prepare it by filling any significant areas of paint loss and sanding. Make sure the part of the boat which was in contact with blocks or jack stands is painted and given time to dry before it is put back into the water.
• Check anodes: Replace them if they are more than 2/3 eroded. While zinc is the traditional material used for anodes for saltwater vessels, aluminum is a more environmentally friendly option that is also best for freshwater boating.
• Corrosion checks: Look over the hull for signs of rust or corrosion, including your anchor and chain.
• If you are hauling out to winterize your boat, make sure you drain your engine, use anti-freeze, add fuel stabilizer and remove any batteries before it is stored. Remove anything that can freeze, rot or attract vermin like food, towels and bedding. Remove and lay out material covers and seat cushions to reduce the chances of mould forming while the boat is stored.

Follow these tips to feel confident when it’s time to launch your boat back in the water, leaving you free to enjoy cruising the coast.

Prices for Haul Outs, Storage & Utilities

Prices for haul outs and services are as follows, segmented into three categories:

Haul Outs

The price of a haul-out depends on two factors: how big your boat is whether you require a full or half haul-out. A full haul-out includes the original haul plus positioning, getting set up on blocks, and launching. A half haul-out, convenient for inspections and marine surveys, is one where the boat remains on the trailer before being launched again.

The cost for a half haul-out starts at $10.10 per foot for a boat that’s 20-29 feet long. The maximum price is $14.05 per foot for a boat between 60 and 70 feet. If you’d rather have a full haul-out, prices start at $15.30 per foot and can run you $20.90 per foot if your boat is 60-70 feet. On top of that, an environmental fee of $1.15 per foot will be applied to half haul-outs, and $2.30 per foot for full haul-outs.

To view all our pricing on haul-outs and other pricing, visit our yachts haul-out page.

Storage

Once you’ve hauled out your boat and completed annual maintenance and upgrades, it’s time to get your boat prepped for storage. You’ll need a large, durable cover to shield your boat from moisture and precipitation. Canvas is ideal, but a waterproof tarp will work.

At Van Isle Marina, we have a fully fenced storage area complete with a card-access security system and cameras. Plus, depending on the length of time you need storage for, we can offer special rates and packages.

Our Annual Storage Special comes standard with 12 ‘round trips’, which includes a launch and full haul-out. Customers are welcome to use a maximum of 2 of these trips in one month. In addition, you can purchase additional valet trips as you need.

For an extra cost, we can also store various boat equipment, including the mast, trailer, dinghy and dinghy rack.

For a full list of prices, visit: Yacht Park and Storage Rates

Utilities

Van Isle Storage customers also have access to utilities if needed. Some boats will require an electrical hookup for standard electrical service, water supply, waste disposal, Wi-Fi, or other electrical demands. Electrical consumption is metered, and we can offer 15 Amp hookups for $38/month all the way up to 50 Amp hookups for $53/month.

Located on Harbour Road in Sidney, Van Isle Marina is one of the largest full-service marinas in the province. Contact us today to inquire about haul-outs, maintenance or storage.
Contact Van Isle Marina Today

Before venturing out into open waters with your brand-new Pursuit Boat, it’s important to have a basic understanding of common boat terms associated with the positions and directions of your boat. To the uneducated ear, even the simplest of boating terms can sound like a second language. Knowing these terms will make it easier to communicate with people aboard the boat as well.

At Van Isle Marina, we want to make sure that you have the best experience possible on your boating journey. In this article, we’re sharing all the boat slang you need to know.

Before you dive in, brush up on more of the basics:

• The Anatomy of Boat
• Basics of Marine Navigation
• Boat Maintenance Checklist

List of Common Boat Slang

Abreast: When two or more vessels are travelling side-by-side. If you’ve got a friend or the police pulling up on you, they will travel abreast.

Ballast: Weight added to the boat for extra stability. For larger ships, there may be big tanks, but on smaller boats, the ballast may just be lead bags and used more for watersports than stability.

Beam: The greatest width of the boat.

Bow: The front of the ship is called the bow. Knowing the location of the bow is important for defining two of the other most common sailing terms: port (left of the bow) and starboard (right of the bow).

Bunk (Berth): Also known as a berth, the bunk is a built-in bed on the boat.

Dinghy (or Tender): A small open boat. A dinghy is often used as a tender for a larger craft.

Draft: The depth of water a boat draws.

Fathom: A unit of measurement for the depth of the water. One fathom is equal to roughly 6 feet or 1.8 meters.

Fender: A cushion, placed between boats or between a boat and a pier, to prevent damage.

Gunwale: The top edge of your boat that runs along the length of the hull and provides structural reinforcement. Rather than how it looks, gunwale is pronounced “gun-wale”.

Head: This is the bathroom or toilet area, which got its name from its original location at the bow of a ship, allowing all matter to be washed away by waves.

Helm: This is an area where the boat is steered from. As the command centre of your craft, the helm is where you’ll find the steering wheel, throttle, communications equipment and more.

Hull: The main part of your boat. This is the watertight body with the job of providing buoyancy in the water while holding all passengers, cargo and systems.

Keel: A vital structural component of any boat that runs through the center of a craft’s bottom, acting as the backbone. Think “even keel”.

Leeward: Also known as lee, leeward is the direction opposite to the way the wind is currently blowing (windward).

Nautical Mile: A unit of measurement for distance out on the water. Based on the Earth’s longitude and latitude, one nautical mile is equal to roughly 1.85 kilometres or 6,000 feet.

Port: Port is always the left-hand side of the boat when you are facing the bow. Because “right” and “left” can become confusing sailing terms when used out in the open waters, port is used to define the left-hand side of the boat as it relates to the bow, or front.

Rudder: The movable blade at the stern of the boat used for steering. The rudder directs the flow of water and is essential for maneuvering.

Starboard: Starboard is always the right-hand side of the boat when you are facing the bow.

Stern: The back of a ship. If something is located at the stern, it is at the back of the boat. The stern is also known as the aft.

Trim: This is the running angle of your bow. When you adjust your trim, you’re changing your angle in the water, along with the speed, fuel efficiency and ride comfort.

Wake: Describes the waves created behind a boat as it tears through the water. So if you see a sign for “no-wake zone”, that means slow right down to a crawl.

Waterline: As the name suggests, this is the line on the hull of your boat that meets the surface of the water.

Weigh: A term used to describe lifting the anchor from the bottom of the water, therefore initiating movement. Once the boat is moving again, it’s considered “underway”.

Windward: The direction in which the wind is currently blowing. Windward is the opposite of leeward (the opposite direction of the wind).

Boat Lingo for Sailboat Owners

As a sailboat owner, you’re in a world with a whole other glossary of boat slang. The lingo above still applies, plus you’ve got extra slang to get familiar with.

Boom: This is the horizontal pole that holds the sail and is used to adjust its shape and angle.

Cathead: A beam projected on the bow of a sailboat used to hoist and secure your anchor. As such, the process of raising the anchor is known as “catting”.

Ease: The act of releasing tension on a sail or line by letting it out. In strong winds, you’ll want to ease the sail for better performance.

Jibing (or Gybing): This is when you maneuver the stern of your boat through the wind, which causes the boom and mainsail to swing to the other end of the boat – just like in the movies. Watch your head!

Lazy Jack: The rigging system on a sailboat made up of lines to help the mainsail fold itself onto the boom when lowered. This prevents the sail from spilling over the sides.

Mainstay: A strong rope or line that secures the mainmast to the deck of the ship. This prevents it from moving around while you’re out on the water.

Mast: The very tall vertical pole on your sailboat that supports the sails, rigging and other equipment.

Payout: Another term for adding slack to a line. This is how you reduce the tension and allow for movement.

Reefing: Reducing the sail’s area in order to lessen power in strong winds, returning you more control and stability. This is typically done by lowering the sail slightly and gathering some of it around the boom.

Sail: The large fabric structure used to propel you through the water with the help of wind. You’ll have one large mainsail, a jib used to control the bow, and perhaps a Genoa sail that overlaps the mainsail and is used for extra power.

Sheet: This is a rope or a line used to control the angle of sail based on the wind. You’ll have a mainsheet for the mainsail and jib sheets for the jib.

Tacking: Changing the direction of the bow through the wind, swapping from one side to the other.

Not ready to stop learning? Get a refresher on all the old boating superstitions. After all, it won’t hurt to be aware of all the good or bad luck you’re bringing on board.

If you’re itching to get out on the water and just need a beautiful new craft to get you there, come by Van Isle Marina in beautiful Sidney by the sea to browse our selection of new and pre-owned boats. We’ve got everything from big, beautiful sailboats to small yachts and fishing boats.

Contact us to inquire: