A Guide to Anchoring Your Boat

Learn what is involved when it comes time to anchor your motor yacht

Knowing how to anchor your boat when necessary is an essential boating skill. In part two of our two-part post on anchoring, we’ll provide some tips & tricks on how to anchor your boat.

How to Anchor Your Boat

There are three main components to anchoring a boat, including:

• Choosing the right anchor
• Choosing a suitable place to anchor
• Dropping the anchor

Choosing the Right Anchor

We covered how to choose the right anchor in Part One of our two-part series on anchoring. To recap, there are several types of anchors available, and it’s important to pick the right kind based on the type of seabed you’ll be covering (sand, rock, seaweed, coral, etc.). Choosing the right anchor has more to do with the seabed below than the size of your vessel.

Choosing the Best Spot to Anchor

A big component of anchoring your boat successfully is knowing where to best anchor the boat so it is safe and secure. Doing so comes down to good old-fashioned intuition, as well as knowing what’s below you. Let’s jump right into it…

First, refer to your charts to know the depth of the water below. Aim for a flat bottom that is suitable for your anchor type. In a perfect world, you end up finding a spot that is soft and weed-free, where the water is calm and there isn’t a lot of wind.

If the area is crowded with other boaters, you’ll also need to be mindful of other boats in the area, making sure your boat’s swing radius won’t intersect with other boats. If possible, ask other boat owners where their anchors are dropped and how long their rodes are if you can’t tell.

Measuring Your Rode

To know if you have enough rode to anchor securely, measure the depth at your desired location from your bow (not the water surface) to the bottom, and multiply by 7, or by 5 is you have a heavier, all-chain rode.

The resulting number is the scope, and it refers to the ratio between the length of your rode and the distance from the bow to the bottom. The scope indicates approximately how far your boat will drift from your anchor. Increase your scope to 10:1 or more for stormy conditions. The longer the scope, the more horizontal your rode is, and the more tightly you will be anchored.

Knowing that if the wind or current changes, your boat could swing every which way from the anchor point, so keep a wide berth from all obstacles (a complete radius from the anchor point). Before dropping anchor, double check there are no hidden shallow areas within your anchor radius.

Also remember to check the weather and tide information so you’re not caught off-guard. If high winds are expected in the time you’ll be anchored, or if a loose anchor could cause a collision with other anchored boats in the area, use your heavier storm anchor. For most situations, your general purpose main anchor will be enough. In extremely rough seas, consider anchoring both your bow and your stern if possible.

Dropping Anchor

With the perfect spot selected, it’s time to drop your anchor. Approach your selected spot slowly from downwind and stop the boat when you’re on top of the selected spot. Allow the current or wind to move you back slightly away from the spot.

Before dropping anchor, determine and let out how much rode you’ll need, then use a cleat hitch to tie it at that distance. Drop your anchor over the bow slowly, keeping the anchor rode tight at first to avoid tangling your rode. This also helps you aim the anchor until you feel it hit bottom. Slowly let out the rode at about the same speed as the boat is moving.

Once one-third of the rode has been let out, cinch it off and let the boat straighten. Your boat will probably turn across the current or wind as you move. This will straighten the rode you’ve let out and gently set the anchor into the bottom. If your boat won’t straighten out, your anchor is drifting and you need to try again. Pick another spot if possible, if multiple attempts fail.

Continue to let out the scope and straighten the boat twice more. Uncinch the anchor rode and let it out as the boat once again drifts backward. Cinch it again once a total of 2/3 the rode length has been played out. Let the boat’s momentum straighten it out and set the anchor more firmly. Repeat this process one more time, letting out the rest of the rode length you determined was necessary.

Tie off the line around a bow cleat and voila!

Snubbing the Anchor

To further ensure you’re anchored, you can give the anchor a final hard set by reversing hard until the rode straightens out. This sudden jerk will jam an already set anchor even more firmly into the seabed. This is called snubbing the anchor.

Making Sure You’re Anchored

To make sure you’ve anchored successfully, select a couple of stationary reference points on land. Note their positions relative to each other from your perspective, then reverse your boat until the rode straightens and allow your boat to drift back to a stationary position. The two objects you had your eye on should be in the same position relative to each other as they were before you reversed.

For peace of mind, we recommend taking compass bearings immediately after anchoring, and then 15-20 minutes after anchoring to make sure you’re anchored. For even more peace of mind, many GPS units have an alarm to alert you if you drift.

Anchoring Safety Tips

• Be careful your hands or feet don’t get caught in the rode.
• Wear a personal flotation device when dropping or retrieving an anchor.
• Instruct passengers whenever you’ll be anchoring.
• Keep kids and animals out of the anchoring area.
• When using more than one anchor, do not drop an anchor from the stern before anchoring the bow – doing so could cause your boat to capsize.
• To make sure you stay anchored during an overnight trip, try to find a stationary object that is lit to use as a reference point. Otherwise, use a GPS unit that will alert you if you start to drift.

Learn More: See how anchoring is different than mooring and docking.

To learn even more about anchoring your boat, we recommend talking to your local boating experts. The team here at Van Isle Marina in Sidney, BC are here to help you anchor your new boat with confidence. Give us a call or stop by to learn more about how we can help you develop your boating skills.

Different Types of Anchors

Learn about the different styles of anchors and how to select the right anchor for your motor yacht

Knowing how to anchor your boat when necessary is an essential boating skill. In part one of our two-part post on anchoring, we share an introduction to selecting the right anchor for your boat.

Anchoring Your Boat

Anchoring your boat refers to securing it in place in the open sea for hours, days, or months at a time without the use of a dock or a moor. (See our guide to understanding the differences between anchoring, docking, and mooring). There are many instances when you might need to anchor a boat, including:

• Spending the night at sea
• During stormy weather
• Taking a fishing or swimming break
• Getting fueled up
• Retiring the boat for the season
• Relaxing to enjoy the scenery

How Many Anchors Do You Need?

Anchoring your boat involves dropping a large heavy object that is attached to your boat into the water, where it latches itself to the seabed with hooks and suction to keep the boat in place. You can anchor your boat anywhere you’re legally allowed to if you have an anchor cable, known as an anchor rode, that’s long enough (multiply the depth of your desired location – from the top of your bow to the bottom of the seabed – by 7, or by 5 if you have a heavier, all-chain rode to determine the scope).

Most luxury motor yachts come with built-in anchoring systems located at the bow and concealed from view, which takes the guesswork out of which size and weight of anchor is best for your vessel, but if you’ll be anchoring in rough seas and/or varying types of sea beds, we recommend carrying an additional anchor or two of varying styles and sizes.

For example, your boat’s main anchor is a great, all-purpose anchor for extended periods. However, if you’ll be making frequent stops and anchoring often, an anchor one or two sizes smaller that’s easy to deploy and pull up would be considered an asset.

Likewise, a storm anchor one or two sizes larger would provide more peace of mind during rough weather or for overnight stops. In addition, it’s always good to have at least one heavy backup in case you lose an anchor, or for situations where it’s wise to use two anchors.

Choosing the right anchor

There are several different types of boating anchors available. Each one is designed for various types of sea beds (i.e., mud, grass, sand, coral, or rock). The type of seabed you’re navigating will determine which anchor is most suitable to use. For motor yachts in the Pacific Northwest, a fluke/Danforth anchor is considered a general-purpose anchor. Carrying both a fluke anchor and a scoop style anchor is recommended.

Fluke Anchors

The modern fluke anchor, also called the Lightweight or Danforth, works in both soft mud and hard sand. Once made out of iron, today’s fluke anchors are aluminum, lightweight and consist of two flat, pointed, pivoting flukes that extend at a 30º angle from the anchor rod. Fluke anchors stow flat and have an excellent holding-power-to-weight ratio. Fluke anchors are those iconic-looking anchors most recognized by the general population (i.e. non-boaters). They are not suitable for grassy or rocky surfaces.

Plow and Scoop Anchors

Plow or scoop anchors are single point anchors that are good for grass, mud, and sand. Similar to fluke anchors, both plow and scoop anchors are heavier and have a plow-shaped wedge attached by a swivel to the shaft.

Mushroom Anchors

Shaped like an upside-down mushroom, mushroom anchors don’t have any way of gripping the seabed; rather, they are heavy and burrow under sediment, which is where their holding power comes from. Mushroom anchors should only be used for small boats like inflatable boats, rowboats, and canoes in heavily weeded areas for short stops only.

Specialized Anchors

Additional anchors on the market include the Grapnel, Herreshoff anchors, Delta, and Claw:

• Grapnel: a shank with four or more tines small enough to hook into rocky bottoms. Best used in rocky bottoms.
• Herreshoff: has small diamond shaped flukes or palms and can be stowed in 3 pieces.
• Delta: a plow anchor with a rigid, arched shank that is self-launching.
• Admiralty or Fisherman Anchor: the classic anchor design that consists of a central shank with a ring or shackle for attaching the rode.
• Bruce or claw anchor: a claw-shaped anchor that is a variation of the plow design intended to have more staying power. Best used in rocky bottoms.

If you’re unsure of what style of anchor is best for your boat, always consult with a boating expert. One of our boating experts at Van Isle Marina will be happy to answer your questions.

Anchor Weight

The size of anchor you’ll need for your vessel will be specified by the boat’s manufacturer. Note that for larger boats, a working anchor and a storm anchor are recommended, with the storm anchor being twice as heavy as the working anchor. For 30’ boats, a working anchor weight of 700 lbs is recommended, and for 60’ boats, that number jumps to 2,000 lbs for the working anchor.

We recommend using a larger anchor than specified if there is an unusual amount of weight being carried on your boat. The physical size of the anchor and its type is more important than its weight, but always go for a larger anchor when in doubt.

Anchor Quality: Although they might not seem like it, anchors are an important piece of safety equipment – always buy high-quality anchors. If you are buying a pre-owned anchor, inspect it for rust, poor welding lines, and other inconsistencies in the metal.

Deck Cleats and Rollers: You also need to have the right type of deck cleats or anchor rollers for your anchors. If you may have a bow roller mounted on your boat already, just know that each roller is only suitable for specific types of anchors. If you don’t have an anchor housing on your boat already, make sure you have strong, sturdy deck cleats for tying the anchor to.

Anchor Chain or Rope?

With your anchor selection made, it’s time to pick the anchor line you’ll attach your anchor to. This line is called the anchor rode, and is typically metal chain, nylon rope, or a combination of the two.

Metal Chain is more expensive but requires less replacement over the years. It also helps to drop the anchor more quickly.

Nylon is strong, easy to manipulate, and relatively cheap to use. It also works well during sudden wind and current changes. However, it can snag or tear more easily and need to be replaced more often than chain.

Many boaters opt for using a combination of both materials and are more concerned with having the rode be of sufficient diameter. For example, aim for nylon rope should be 3/16″ (4.8mm) in diameter for a vessel under 10′ (3m) in length and 3/8″ (9.5mm) for a vessel under 20′ (6m). Increase the diameter by an additional eighth of an inch for each additional 10 feet of your vessel length.

When you buy a boat or yacht through Van Isle Marina, our boating experts will help familiarize you with your yacht’s anchoring system, so you feel confident you are prepared for anything when out on the water.

Give us a call or stop by to learn more about how we can help you develop your boating skills.

A Step-by-Step Guide to Buying a Used Boat

Learn the steps involved when purchasing a pre-owned yacht or boat through a yacht broker.

If you’re in the market for a new boat and are looking to keep the costs down, the best place to start is pre-owned boats. From the yacht brokers at Van Isle Marina, here is our step-by-step guide to buying a pre-owned boat.

Step 1: Decide on the Right Type of Boat for Your boating needs

There are many different types of yachts available, including sailing yachts, motor yachts, sports yachts, cruising yachts, fishing yachts, and more. To narrow down what’s right for you, consider the following questions a yacht broker will likely ask you:

• Are you looking for a sailing yacht or a motor yacht?
• Will you be using the yacht for fishing, watersports, cruising, entertaining, or a combination?
• Will you be using the boat for short day trips, long-range cruising, or both?
• How important are things like speed and power?
• Do you plan on frequently sleeping or living on your boat?
• Will you be on your boat for days, weeks, or months at a time?
• Do you plan on having a lot of guests spending nights on board?
• What is your level of boating experience?
• Will you be comfortable navigating a larger vessel, or an older vessel that might require more maintenance?

Step 2: Storage Considerations for your New Boat

In addition to the above questions, another thing to consider is where you plan on keeping your boat. Will it be in your driveway, at your own dock, or in a marina, for example?

If you’ll be docking or mooring your boat, you will need to consider the bridge height limitations, depth and draft considerations, and slip length and width maximums of where you plan on storing your boat when it’s not in use.

With answers to the above questions in mind, it’s time to read up on what boats and yachts are available or visit marinas in person to walk the docks and truly get a feel of the many sensational options out there. Another option is to skip ahead to contacting a yacht broker directly, who can help you start your search from the get-go.

Step 3: Budgeting for your New Boat

As is the case with all big purchases, it’s best to have an idea of what you can realistically afford before starting your search for your perfect vessel. If it’s your first time buying a yacht, our team of brokers will advise you on the costs associated with yacht ownership, including insurance fees, fuel consumption rates, moorage fees, extended warranties, and general maintenance. All of these factors will have a bearing on your overall boating budget.

Generally, when it comes to staying within budget, it’s often a trade-off between the boat’s size and the boat’s age – and not necessarily all of its luxury options. For example, for the same amount of money, you can get more luxury features in a smaller boat of the same age than you would in a larger boat of the same age.

Oftentimes, for newer boaters, the smaller and more updated the model, the better, as it instills confidence in navigating the vessel. The bigger the boat, the bigger the budget must become, plain and simple. At Van Isle Marina, we offer multiple financing options with full transparency and zero early payout or pre-payment restrictions. Know that the terms for boating financing are typically longer than those that are arranged for cars, aligning more with mortgage timelines – they typically range from 12 to 20 years.

Step 4: Looking at Pre-Owned Boats

Once you have a better idea of what you’re looking for, the next step is locating some boats to tour. A yacht broker can help you find the best deals, and many times can locate boats from far and wide that meet all your wish list, even if that boat isn’t officially on the market yet, or at their home marina yet.

At Van Isle Marina, if we don’t currently have what you’re looking for moored at our docks, we will search high and low to find you exactly the make and model you’re after. Our yacht brokers achieve this through their extensive connections with dealers, wholesalers and clients throughout the boating industry.

Like buying a house, yacht brokers will set up showings on your behalf. They can advise on a boat’s condition and flag anything that looks problematic. As with everything you purchase, you might find the right boat right away, or have to look at many options before deciding to make an offer.

Step 5: Making an Offer on a Yacht for Sale

When you find something that ticks all your boxes, making an offer on a yacht for sale is the next step. It might feel hasty at first, but it’s the best way to get ahead of others who are interested. Making an offer on a pre-owned yacht is just like putting down an offer on a house. You need to:

• state your offer amount,
• state your contingencies or subjects, and
• state your timelines.

Your yacht broker will assist with all formal contracts. At this point it is recommended to have put a 10% deposit down, which your yacht broker holds in escrow, to demonstrate to the seller that your offer is serious.

Step 6: Getting a Yacht Surveyed

One of the contingencies of a used boat sale is having the boat undergo a marine survey. This step is not mandatory but is highly encouraged. Think of this step as a home inspection, where the condition of the vessel is surveyed from bow to stern. Typically, your broker will supply you with a list of approved surveyors – ones that are reputable and known to do a thorough and complete job. There are varying degrees of boat surveys available, for example, more thorough surveys are recommended for older boats, for example, while basic surveys are fine for boats still under warranty.

During a thorough survey, all hands are on deck looking at all of the vessel’s systems in addition to having a certified engine mechanic or surveyor look at the main engines, transmissions and generators with oil samples.

If the yacht you’re looking at has gyros, stabilizer fins, a high-tech integrated entertainment center, and more, choose to have a technician who specializes in that equipment inspecting the vessel as well.

This survey is at your expense (approximately $17 – $20 per linear foot) and could take up to three days to complete. However, it is money well spent.

Step 7: To Buy or Not to Buy the Boat

With the boat surveyor’s report in front of you, it’s time to decide if you will be buying the boat or not. You can either accept the vessel, accept the vessel under certain conditions, or reject the vessel.

• Acceptance of Vessel – If you are happy with the boat surveyor’s report, you and your yacht broker will submit the necessary form saying as much. You are accepting the boat as-is and are ready to close the deal and take possession of the boat. Congratulations!
• Conditional Acceptance of Vessel – If some red flags came out of the marine surveyor’s report, you have a chance to bring these to the seller’s attention and negotiate the selling price some more. Your broker will prepare updated contracts stating that you would like to move forward and purchase the boat if the price is adjusted to address marine survey deficiencies. If this new price is accepted, your deposit will become non-refundable.
• Rejection of Vessel – If the marine survey revealed some major flaws with the vessel and something just isn’t feeling right, you can (and should!) back out of the deal altogether by rejecting the vessel. To do so, you will be required to submit paperwork stating as much, and your deposit will be returned to you.

Step 8: Closing the Deal

Once everything is settled and the deal is moving forward, your broker will guide you through the paperwork to ensure the rest of the transaction goes smoothly. Your boat will soon be all yours! Be sure you’re prepared for its arrival by having the following in place:

• Storage Solutions – Plan where your boat will be stored when not in use. Will it be at home in your driveway, high and dry? Or at a marina, yacht club, or your own private dock? Some boaters choose convenience and proximity to home, while others go for the amenities of a marina or yacht club, even if it’s further away.
• Boat Insurance – If you are financing your boat, insurance coverage is a requirement. It needs to be planned for before you close the deal and take possession of the boat.
• Transfer of Ownership – Remember to register or licence your boat. A previously owned yacht is are already registered, so you must transfer its licence number within 90 days. A yacht broker can also assist with this.

Read more about Boating Insurance, Licence, and Registration Requirements

Buying a boat is almost always an exciting process, especially if you have an experienced yacht broker on your side. That’s where Van Isle Marina can help! To further discuss what type of yacht would best fit your needs, and learn more about our yacht buying process, please feel free to contact one of our yacht brokers.  Our brokers at Van Isle Marina can give you firsthand information and advice to help you make the best decision when buying a pre-owned yacht or boat.

Key Differences and Pros / Cons of Each Type of Fishing Reel

In addition to the various types of fishing to choose from, there are also various types of rods and reels to choose from depending on what you’re trying to catch and where you’re trying to catch it. A reel is simply a mechanical device attached to a fishing rod that stores, releases, and collects the fishing line via a rotating arm.

As with the lures vs live bait debate, most fishermen will have a preference for a particular type of reel, depending on the location, targeted species of fish, their budget and their experience level. To learn more about what will work best for your fishing adventures, read on.

What is a Baitcaster Reel?

A baitcaster reel sits on top of the rod so the spool is parallel to the rod. It works well with monofilament, fluorocarbon and braid line types. The line on a baitcaster reel comes off the spool directly in line with the rod while the line of a spinning reel is let off away from the rod.

When you’re baitcasting, the spool moves with the casting of the line, so it requires a more experienced angler to keep things under control. Otherwise, the spool ends up moving faster than your casting line is flying, and the line bunches up into a knotty mess. This is called backlash, or a bird’s nest and can be reduced or prevented with practice. It’s the main reason why baitcaster reels are recommended for advanced fishermen. Although it’s a more advanced type of reel, being able to use multiple types of lures, bait and lines make a huge difference in fishability.

How to Use a Baitcaster Reel

A baitcaster reel is best for strategically dropping your line in a more crowded area, or in a hot spot like a riverbed. Depending on the quality, it’s also powerful enough to be used as an offshore fishing reel. When using a baitcasting reel, the dominant hand holds the rod to cast, and then the angler switches hands to reel in the cast, so the dominant hand controls the reel as well. Experienced anglers will use their thumb to brake and control the line as they are casting to prevent backlash or nesting.

When using a baitcaster reel, you release the line when you press the button. This also immediately drops your bait. To cast, you lock the line with your thumb on the reel. To end your cast, turn the reeling handle (this pops the button back up) or put your thumb back on the spool.

Baitcaster Reel Pros

• Durable
• Lightweight, low-profile
• Can hold heavier line
• Can hold more line
• Stronger drag capabilities
• Can handle heavier and powerful fish
• Can handle heavier fishing lines and lures
• Highly customizable

Baitcaster Reel Cons

• More expensive
• Higher learning curve; requires more experience
• Backlashes (sudden bunching of the line in the spool)
• Can be difficult to switch between left and right orientations

What is a Spincaster Reel?

Spincaster reels are the simplest type to use, making them well-suited for testing the waters. Spincast reels are also a great budget-friendly option for beginning anglers or children.

Spincaster reels have a button that allows you to toggle between locked and free-spool. They also have a drag adjustment on the underside of the reel or beside the reel handle. This drag adjustment mechanism controls how much resistance a fish will feel when it’s on the line.

The mechanisms are all hidden inside a metal or plastic casing, which means any tangles that occur can go unnoticed and become a true mess. It also means that water and debris gets trapped inside, shortening the life of the reel. Because they cost as little as $20 each, this reel type may only last for a season or two.

How to Use a Spincaster Reel

When using a spincaster reel, just press and hold the button to keep the line locked while casting. Once your casting reaches its peak, release the button to release the line. The weight of the lure and your casting position creates the momentum the line needs and the line will fly wherever the tip of your rod is pointing.

Spincaster Reel Pros

• Budget-friendly
• Easier to use
• No backlash (sudden bunching of the line due to a spool moving too quickly)
• Suitable for lightweight lures and lines
• Easier to cast near the shoreline or under overhanging trees with a sidearm cast
• Easy to switch left and right-hand orientations
• Easy to add more line capacity with an additional reel
• Great for in shore fishing

Spincaster Reel Cons

• Bulkier reel
• Not as strong or durable
• Line can tangle, twist or tear (the dreaded wind knots)
• Less drag ability (refers to how much resistance a fish feels when it pulls on the line. The tighter the drag is set, the more resistance the fish feels)
• No distance control
• Not designed to last multiple seasons

What are Spinning Reels?

Not to be confused with spincaster reels, spinning reels are preferred by anglers all over the world but are still easy enough for beginners to use. Unlike the spincaster reels, spinning reels are designed with an open face and a metal bail to prevent the line from nesting. The reel is mounted on the bottom of the rod for better balance when casting and the drag adjustment is located on top of the reel.  A high-quality ultralight spinning reel will have you fishing like a pro in no time.

How to Use a Spinning Reel

A spinning reel and rod allows for a lot more control than a basic spincaster reel and rod. To unlock the line, you disengage the metal bail and hold the line with your index finger. This will prevent unspooling and tangling before you’ve even started to cast.

Then, when you’re casting, release your index finger and let the line go once you reach the top of your cast. To prevent unspooling, move the bail back to the starting position by turning the crank once you’re done your cast.

Spinning Reel Pros

• Higher quality
• Reel position at the bottom of the rod creates better balance
• More control over casting distance and speed
• More control over drag
• Ideal for placing in a rod holder (set and forget)
• Lower cost than a baitcaster reel
• Easy to switch between right-handed and left-handed use (the crank arm can be moved to either side)
• Can be used with light lures and bait
• Suited for multiple habitats

Spinning Reel Cons

• Doesn’t perform as well or cast as far with heavier lures
• The bail must be handled properly to prevent tangles
• A more expensive reel, starting at $50+
• Not meant for reeling in larger fish like salmon or halibut

At the end of the day, deciding between a baitcaster vs spincaster vs spinning reels will depend on your specific situation and ability as well as what you’re trying to catch.

For more information on any of these different fishing reel types and their uses, we recommend chatting with other fishermen, including us here at Van Isle Marina or the clerks at the tackle shops. There are also many helpful videos and infographics online to help you get started.

Looking for a new boat or yacht to start casting lines from? Van Isle Marina has a wide range of yachts for sale moored at our docks. Take a look at our selection online or come and see us in person. We are located at 2320 Harbour Road in Sidney, British Columbia near Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal.

Learning the (Getting) Ins and Outs of Boating

Let’s look at the differences between anchoring, mooring, and docking. While they all refer to ways of securing your boat in place when necessary, these 3 nautical terms all mean something slightly different.

An essential part of learning how to navigate a new vessel is learning all the options you have for stopping your boat whenever the need arises, such as when you’re:

• Preparing for an overnight at sea
• Waiting for a storm to pass
• Stopping to cast a line
• Taking a swimming break
• Retiring the boat for the season
• Getting fueled up

To secure your yacht in place for any length of time, your choices include anchoring, mooring, or docking the boat. All these terms refer to securing your boat in position on the water – for hours, days, or months at a time.

Anchoring Your Boat

Anchoring your boat refers to dropping a large heavy object that is attached to your boat into the water, where it latches itself to the seabed with hooks and suction to keep the boat in place. You can anchor your boat anywhere if you have an anchor cable (known as an anchor rode) that’s long enough. To figure out how long your anchor rode should be, multiply the deepest water you might anchor in by eight.

Many modern motor yachts come with built-in anchoring systems. For example, like on most Riviera luxury yachts, the anchoring station on board the Riviera 57 Enclosed Flybridge is located at the bow, concealed from view, and comes with a remote control, fresh and saltwater washdown outlets, and a rope locker.

Having your yacht come with an anchoring station takes the guesswork out of which size and weight of anchor is best for your vessel, but there is a greater science behind anchoring that you’ll want to be aware of if you’re a new boat owner, especially if you’ll be anchoring in varying types of sea beds.

For additional anchoring security, many boaters carry two anchors of different styles – a fluke/Danforth style and a plow/scoop variety. The type of seabed you’re navigating, such as mud, grass, sand, coral, or rock, will determine which anchor is most suitable to use. Research your anchoring options before sailing too far from shore and make sure you’re confident with how the process works.

Mooring Your Boat

Mooring refers to lassoing, tethering, tying, or otherwise securing your boat to a fixed object, such as a mooring buoy, rather than dropping an anchor to secure your vessel anywhere you fancy. You can moor your boat to a mooring buoy, dock, quay, wharf, jetty, or pier.

If mooring at a dock or pier with many other boats, such as at Van Isle Marina, there is a chance your boat will be occupying a dock or dock space that is the width of your boat, rather than the length. However, you will always have your own strip of docking walkway for easy loading and unloading.

Mooring your boat (sometimes called berthing) is done a few different ways and might take some trial and error until you perfect this skill. Mooring in a tight space amongst many other boaters proves to be intimidating for many new boaters.

To moor a boat at a mooring buoy out in open water, you’ll need something to grab hold of the buoy with, such as a boat hook or a line. You can either lasso the buoy with your line and pull your boat towards it to further secure it or use a boat hook to reach out and grab the buoy.

At these types of mooring locations, there will most likely be the mooring anchor, mooring chain, and mooring buoy – all you need to supply is the line or the hook to help your boat attach to the mooring area.

• mooring anchor – this is a regular anchor in a fixed position that keeps your boat steady while it is being moored. Use one that is three times the weight of your service anchor.
• mooring chain – this line connects the anchor to the floating buoy. We recommend three times the length of depth, and a quarter-inch larger than your service chain.
• mooring buoy – a floating device that connects to the anchor and marks the place where the boat is moored.

If you find a vacant mooring anchor and buoy, simply pull up as close to it as possible and attach your line and mooring buoy accordingly – using your lasso technique or the boat hook. If the buoy is not public property, be prepared to vacate at short notice if the owner turns up. To tell if the buoy is strong enough to moor your yacht, consider the size of boats on similar buoys nearby and use your best judgment.

If you have enough hands on-deck, backing the boat up will likely get you close enough to the mooring point via the stern rather than the bow, making things a little simpler, depending on the shape of your boat.

Van Isle Marina offers moorage for boats of all sizes at competitive rates per square foot.

A Word on Rafting Up: Sometimes you might come across boats that are tied together on the water. This is known as “rafting up” and is essentially a boat moored to another boat. It can come in handy when every other moorage station is full, in emergencies, or if you’re just looking to socialize with another boat on the water. If you’re looking to raft up with another boat, whether it’s moored already or you’re both out on the open sea, the proper etiquette is to ask first, and have your fenders in place and an anchor ready to drop.

Docking Your Boat

Docking your boat refers to pulling your vessel up to a dock as parallel as you can, and then using ropes (dock lines) and nautical knots to secure (fasten) the boat to the dock.

In addition to the docking line, to dock your boat safely, you’ll require four or more fenders – large plastic or rubber devices that act as a buffer between the boat and the dock or pier and other boats, protecting both from damage. Using a couple large fenders close together at the front of your boat when coming into dock can act as a bumper, further protecting your yacht during this procedure.

When you’re docking a boat, the boat will be close enough for guests to easily disembark the vessel onto the dock (land). Docking usually means the length of your boat (bow and stern) will be secured to the dock, giving you a maximum amount of space for loading and unloading of supplies, as well as maintenance and cleanup of your vessel.

Docking is made easier when there is someone already on the dock to help you, and when the winds and the tide are cooperating. However, just like parallel parking a car, docking a boat gets easier and easier each time you do it. At Van Isle Marina, one of our experienced boaters can show you how it’s done.

Van Isle Marina in Sidney, BC is your go-to boat marina in the Pacific Northwest. We love to help fellow boaters just like us learn more about all the ins and outs of boating, including anchoring, mooring, and docking. If you’re interested in buying or selling a boat or moorage at our marina, give us a call or stop by to find out why so many people love to moor with us.

What people have to say about mooring with Van Isle Marina:

Impeccable facilities, moorage for 100’+ yachts down to small fishing boats, always helpful and alert staff, 24 hour video security, full service boatyard, large dry stowage yard, two sided fuel dock, Canada Customs dock, pumpout dock, laundry, showers and the best restaurant in town all located just 15 minutes from Victoria International Airport (YYJ) and on the door step to one of the best cruising grounds on Earth.  ~ EZBob Vincent

Great spot for moorage. Friendly staff, excellent facilities with updated docks.  ~ Scott Hutchinson